More than just a pit-stop on the journey north, this regularly-overlooked corner of La Safor is known for its vast numbers of mineral water springs, its noisy fiestas and its custom of blessing cars... Xeraco – known almost exclusively by its Valencian name rather than the castellano ‘Jaraco’ – started out life, like most towns in La Safor, as an Arab farmstead and was a major Morisco residence until the early 17th century.

Now, some four hundred years later, it is more widely known for its golden, sandy beaches, and its rail route to Valencia with free parking at the station. Those in the know come off the AP-7 a stop further north than Gandia and take the train from Xeraco, thus saving themselves some 4.50 euros in car park fees and knocking about a euro off the fare. However, next time this crosses your mind, leave a little earlier and take some time to explore Xeraco itself before you head for the bright lights of the big city.

An intersection that links the whole of the Valldigna together by water, Xeraco sits on the edge of the river Vaca, which originates from the Font Major in Simat and where, at the widest and deepest part, the Torre de Guaita was built. Straddling the boundary of Xeraco and Tavernes, the most important watchtower in the district of La Safor underwent major structural reform works in the 1980s, but still conserves its original, Morisco architecture. Typical of Mediterranean watchtowers in the 17th century, it is cylindrical in shape, around 7.5m high and is one of the few remaining of a string of viewing posts that allowed Mediaeval Valencians to protect the coastline from possible invasion.

A much more recently-constructed building designed for keeping a watchful eye over the coast – and worth the detour – is the old military police or carabinieri station. Founded at the beginning of the 20th century, it has now become one of the town’s most prominent tourist attractions.

Holy hatchbacks and blessed BMWs
A good time to take a trip to Xeraco is between August 2 and 7 when the local fiestas take place, with concerts, open-air discos, shows and firework displays are the order of the week. The main event is August 3, where the town pays homage to its patron, St Christopher, whose statue is closely-guarded in the 19th century chapel found in the town centre.

Given that St Christopher is the patron saint of safe travel, it is customary in Xeraco to bless inhabitants’ vehicles as part of the celebrations – so, if you are passing through on the way to catch the train to Valencia, take a detour in your car to the town centre to make sure you reach your destination safely.

Whilst you are there, forget the RENFE station for a minute and pop along to the main street, or Paseo, where the old railway station is located. Now no longer in use, it still conjures up images of early-morning commuters in bygone times propping up the platform whilst watching for the steam-train that would take them to their city offices.

Workers who, incidentally, make us give thanks for our comparatively comfortable salaries and hours of labour nowadays – those who built Xeraco’s cistern, which used to be the town’s main supply of fresh water, earned just 50 céntimos a day and worked from 8am to 10pm for seven solid months. Unsurprisingly, when it was officially inaugurated on June 23, 1886, a huge street party involving the whole village took place with live bands, music and merriment.

Clearly, once mains water was installed in the middle of the twentieth century, the cistern ceased to be used – although those underpaid, overworked builders’ hard labour has not gone to waste. It has since been redeployed as an exhibition hall.

Inland waters
If your train to Valencia is running late, you can either sit tapping your feet and twiddling your thumbs on a hard metal seat on the platform, or take advantage of the situation by going for a stroll around Xeraco’s unrivalled countryside.

From the town, take the calle Pintor Sorolla, cross the N-332 and then the AP-7 via a bridge in the direction of the Font de l’Ull, the spring that used to supply water to the cistern and thus to the town’s population a hundred years ago.

When the tarmac road runs out, walkers will find themselves on a rough pathway bordering a ravine, flanked by centuries-old elms and carob trees, that leads to a tunnel where the spring, known for its natural mineral properties, flows in abundance. Back in the direction of home, hikers will pass the ruins of an old refuge and another, smaller natural spring, the Font de l’Olivera, from which the panorama of the valley below is spectacular. On a clear day, a birds’ eye view of the whole of Xeraco, part of the green, fertile Valldigna, across orange groves and on to the inviting blue waters of the Mediterranean is guaranteed.

Of course, there are plenty of other routes recognised by the tourist board and therefore tried, tested and safe. Plenty more natural mineral springs are there to be discovered, and stunning views to behold.

So many that, with all the best intentions, you will probably miss your train to Valencia after all.