This summer, escape the humidity and crowds of the coast and take a trip inland to discover some of the stunning, dramatic landscape and historic towns that the Alicante province has to offer. A tour through the relatively untapped countryside of the Medio Vinalopó region and its attractive, peaceful municipalities reveals that there is more to the province than the Costa Blanca with its beach bars and water sports (much as we enjoy those, too).  Mountains with hidden caves, dense pine forest and arid desert give the visitor the impression of being somewhere else entirely – another part of Spain, perhaps, or even a different country – despite being just 20 kilometres from Alicante city.

Monforte del Cid barely qualifies as a town with a population of less than six thousand but the wealth of history and tradition, action-packed leisure and sporting opportunities and rich, quality local cuisine that can be found has succeeded in putting it on the map. Tucked away in the valley of the river Vinalopó and surrounded by four mountain ranges that act as a wall between the town and Elche, Monforte del Cid is perfectly placed to make the most of the winter rainfall, the result of which is one of the best-quality grape crops in the area. These are grown for eating rather than for wine, and enjoy a national reputation for their superior flavour.

A quick history lesson

The town’s original name was Nompot until it became known as Monfort (meaning montaña fortificada, or fortified mountain). Later on, in the 17th century it was renamed in Castilian Spanish and became Monforte del Cid - the suffix taking its name from on of the mountain ranges that effectively cuts it off from the rest of the region, the Sierra del Cid, which stands at 1,100m above sea level.  Like many other parts of Spain the municipality has witnessed the passage of numerous civilisations over the course of centuries and recent archaeological findings reveal evidence of societies that made Monforte their home. In 1974, a sculpture known as the Iberian Bull (second photo) was discovered on the banks of the river, and soon after, a Roman headstone showed that the town had once been a settlement during the time of the Empire. Both pieces are now on display in the town hall.  Most of the town bears witness to Spain’s Moorish past, with Arabic architecture and winding streets that all lead to the mosque. Monforte’s multicultural, multi-religious past is revealed by the presence of Christian churches within a stone’s throw of the mosque - the parish church of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (‘our lady of the snow’) an architectural masterpiece of the Baroque era (fourth photo), is actually built within the grounds of the mosque.

Its renovation in the 18th century means that the original structure is blended with neoclassical influences, the work of local architect José Terol el Mayor. Still within the mosque’s territory is the bell tower, now six hundred years old but still fully-functioning. Culture vultures should not miss a trip to the chapels of San Pascual and San Roque, or the sculpture dedicated to Jorge Juan, created by sailor Adrian Carrillo in 1974.

From altarpieces to aniseed

Monforte del Cid’s economy is firmly rooted in agriculture, almost oblivious to the passage of time. Its grapes are famous all over the Comunidad Valenciana and vineyards occupy the majority of farmland in the municipality.

The area also relies heavily on the marble trade - next time you buy some new floor tiles or kitchen worktops, it is highly likely that they will have been created in one of the many workshops in Monforte del Cid, given that its produce serves both national and regional manufacturers. Just about anything that can be made from marble comes out of Monforte, from furnishings, balustrades and sculptures to tabletops, bathroom fixtures and ornaments. One of its best-known traditional industries is the production of the ‘love-it-or-hate-it’ paloma monfortina (which translates as Monforte dove, or pigeon, depending upon your opinion after tasting it). A take on the staple Spanish tipple anís, the paloma monfortina comprises one part aniseed and two parts water. If diluted Pernod or Ouzo is not to your taste, don’t bother, but if you are the type of person who will try anything once, paloma monfortina is served in just about every restaurant in the town and beyond. True fans can combine it with aniseed rolls, semi-sweet cakes that are also a speciality of the village and widely-produced locally.

Food and drink

Leaving all things aniseed aside for a moment, Monforte del Cid’s home cuisine is varied and unique and widely-available in the Medio Vinalopó. It may come as a surprise that a little village tucked away in a mountain valley could have its own personal recipes, but its sardine and tomato tarts, gacha miga, gazpacho (cold soup), cocas (similar to mini-pizzas), caldo al cielo (a dish of cod, potatoes, eggs and tomatoes), rice dishes and pelotas (balls of meat stew wrapped in cabbage leaves) have a distinct flavour that is difficult to find outside of the region. Neither does France have the monopoly on eating snails - they are consumed with relish in Monforte.

Let’s party!

Perhaps disappointingly, Monforte del Cid’s two biggest fiestas are lumped together into one. Whilst most of the province is celebrating its Moors and Christians right now, in the heat of the summer, Monforte waits until the beginning of December and combines the holiday with its local festivals in celebration of the Immaculate Conception between 5 and 9 December. In between the usual castle-storming, Moorish expulsion and Christian victory, the colourful parades feature an offering of flowers to the patron saint and the hoisting of the flags. Four days of processions and bands bring the village alive with a 24-hour party atmosphere filling the streets.

What to do in Monforte del Cid

Having visited the churches, watched the processions and drunk your fill of aniseed you still have time to kill, the local sports centre is fully-equipped with swimming pools, tennis courts and bowling greens, or there is a wide network of walking routes through the picturesque, peaceful pine forests that flank the river basin. As the routes are clearly signposted, there is no danger of becoming lost, but with wildlife and nature aplenty it is the perfect retreat for those who wish to get off the beaten track and enjoy the silence.

Monforte del Cid is another world, but right on the doorstep of the one we live in - a world that brings back the long-forgotten customs, traditions and architecture that makes our region unique. A world that offers unspoilt countryside, a walk into history and yet all the facilities and leisure amenities of the twenty-first century. Next time you are heading for Alicante, take a detour just north of the airport and see what you have been missing.

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS:

Tourist Information - 965 620 238 or 965 620 026
Town hall - 965 620 025 or 965 620 026
Local Police - 965 620 239
Health centre - 965 620 503