Spain is one of the European countries blessed with a privileged gastronomy, but the best places to appreciate its culinary diversity are its local markets – authentic cathedrals of the senses.

THE first thing to do when arriving at a Spanish city is to ask the residents for its municipal market. The answer, if we are in Valencia, Barcelona, Mallorca, or Cádiz, will take us directly to a fantastic building and within we will encounter the best produce for our kitchens and a lot more....

The extra bonus, which doesn’t come with the ripe tomatoes or beans, is the chance to study the sociological character of the locals, because the way in which the salespeople and vendors interact with their clients says a lot about the commercial and open character of Spaniards, and above all, Mediterraneans.

The municipal markets are still the epicentre of civic life, especially in cities such as Barcelona and Valencia. Nowadays, the majority of their inhabitants buy their produce in small neighbourhood supermarkets but the municipal markets provide the pulse of the city, and of course, the better restaurants use them to obtain the freshest, most exquisite commodities.

In fact, many of the market vendors base a good part of their business on supplies to restaurants, so it is not strange to see a good quantity of hermetically sealed crates being loaded off to some distributor first thing in the morning.

Markets and the internet
To adapt to new technologies and the new demands of its users, some of these markets have already incorporated electronic commerce with a domestic delivery service. For example, the Central Market of Valencia, the largest European market by area, offers its clients the possibility of purchasing via the internet (www.mercadocentralvalencia.es) and delivers the produce to any local residence for the reasonable price of 3 euros (if the purchase surpasses 72 euros).

Thinking of tourists
While Valencia is clued up to new technologies, the Boqueria, the emblematic market situated in the Ramblas of Barcelona, has developed a novelty for the tourist and sells for the reasonable price of 5 euros, fruit peeled and ready to eat, or stupendous milkshakes whose fruit content is chosen by the client and freshly crushed on the spot.

In the streets
In Madrid, although the buildings are not antique there are traditional markets of long standing such as Antón Martín and Chamberí. One must keep in mind that all these markets grew out of street markets, that is to say, they were mobile events held in the open air. Therefore in connection with their origins there is a new initiative known as the Urban Gastronomic Market of Madrid that is celebrated four times a year in the Spanish capital, each time in a different plaza, offering the best Spanish products. The next edition of this market, under the generic name of The Plaza, will take place between December 13 to 16 and will be held at the Jacinto Benavente Plaza, very near to La Puerta del Sol.

Valencia
The Central Market of Valencia (main photo) is located in the heart of the city, in what used to be an avenue based along a tributary of the river Turia, (since in Roman times Valencia was an island city).

Before entering the market you must observe the outskirts because in front of the market is la Lonja de la Seda, one of the most important Gothic monuments of the city and also the Baroque Church of Santos Juanes, which is based on the old Arabian mosque of the city.

The central market and its environment are plagued with popular historical legends. The church is also known as the ‘church of the rascals’, because child thieves, that stole food from the market for their own consumption as well as to resell, hid there.

The market’s current building is in modernist style, and began construction in 1919 only reaching completion on January 23, 1928. It is an irregular shape to fit into the urban landscape and made from an iron skeleton, crowned by a great crystal dome to increase the natural light.

Separate from the meat and vegetable zones, the area selling fish is particularly spectacular at this time of year, because in Spain, the Christmas custom is to eat lamb, turkey and also shellfish.

Barcelona
Situated in the central Ramblas of Barcelona, the Boqueria market (third photo) has become a great tourist attraction, flying the banner of Catalonian gastronomy. Only a brief stroll by its galleries gives the tourist a festival of colours, flavours and fragrances.

Its specialization is such that you can find areas dedicated exclusively to a single food: in the case of bananas, eggs or cod. The fruit shops, fish stalls, pork and meat markets inhabit the space next to areas dedicated only to chocolates, cheeses, dried fruits, aromatic herbs and an array of vegetables.

All the typical foodstuffs you could wish for are represented here, from habitual products you might find in any shopping mall (oranges, ham, peppers, chickpeas...) to less common gourmet articles (for example, we can find Denomination of Origin Wines, as well as exotic kinds of fruits, sweets, natural juices, types of shellfish. ..), without forgetting the typically Catalonian gastronomy: butifarra, wines and cavas, rice, apples, sausages and calçots. As the saying goes, ‘What you cannot find in the Boqueria, you will not find in any another place’.

Also in Barcelona is the market of Santa Caterina. This is situated in the centre of the Ciutat Vella, or old city, in the neighbourhood barrio of la Ribera, and it is true to say that the market of Santa Caterina has been testimony to the entire history of Barcelona. As in many other cases, the history of this market begins with the demolition of a convent, in this case that of Santa Caterina, to make way for a jug market, placed on the outskirts of this convent because in it there was a well whose water provided a miraculous cure against marsh fever.

However, the old well disappeared in one of the reforms of the market. The market area is covered with a spectacular wooden roof and its sheltered exit leads on to Avenida Cambó, in the direction of Via Layetana. The stalls include an extensive fruit and vegetable stand, meat markets, fishmongers, etc., next to a supermarket and bars and restaurants (www.mercatsantacaterina.net).

Madrid
The Antón Martín market is in the heart of Madrid, with access from Santa Isabel street and Duque de Fernán Núñez, and the Doré passage, where the National Film Library is located, which used to house the old cinema Doré. The market was built in 1941 and it has a surface area of some 4,500 square metres, including some 70 stalls, of which 17 are fruit shops, 10 meat markets, 9 fishmongers, 7 sell chickens and the remainder other food produce, products and services. Another market that deserves a visit is the Chamberí, located in the neighbourhood of Madrid of the same name, in a residential area serving the centre of the city. It was inaugurated in 1943, and has a surface area of some 2,500 metres.

Vitoria
In the Centre of Vitoria we find the market of La Plaza Santa Bárbara located next to El Corte Inglés. The old building of The Plaza was built at the end of the 19th century in which nowadays the Plaza de los Fueros is located, scarcely 300 metres from the court. The current market was inaugurated in 1975 and the architect was Esteve Jacotot. The market covers 5,000 square metres, divided over several floors, plus private parking.

Granada
The supply market of Guadix is located in the street Doctor Joaquín Tena Sicilia, in a central zone of the municipality. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century, and has had two reforms, one in the fifties and another more recent one. It is built in iron, in a modern style, and comprises three floors, in which 36 stalls are distributed. The first floor covers fruits and vegetables, the second, meat and the third, fish.

Also in Granada is the market of San Augustine. The market is situated in the plaza that carries its name because it was the location for the convent of San Augustine, which in the 19th century passed into the hands of the municipality and over which, once the convent was in ruins, the central retail market was built. Currently, the market is situated in a modern building, above and connected to a car park. It comprises three floors and 2,364 square metres of total surface area. The majority of the merchants there stem from the old market, or are the children of original merchants.

Cádiz
The central supply market of Cádiz is situated in the Plaza de La Libertad, occupying a rectangular plot of some 6,000 m2. It was constructed in 1837 from plans designed by the architect Juan Daura, and placed in the garden of the Convent of the Barefoot Franciscans.

In its interior, a great central hall is elevated, giving shape to the interior of the Market. The façades of the building are a good reflection of the typical architecture of Andalusian markets, defining bases and pillars, as well as cornices, gargoyles and decorations that confer an exclusive and gracious character.

Murcia
Verónicas supply market in Murcia was built in 1914 and currently has two floors. The façade of the market is of neoclassical cut and the building itself has been declared an Artistic Regional Monument. On the upper floor, business is dedicated to selling fruits and vegetables, as well as dried fruits, whereas below the meat market and fish sellers are located. Verónicas supply market is located on the Plano de San Francisco, beside the old Convent de las Verónicas, (named after a plant similar to speedwell) which is now a museum open to the public, near the street Arco de Verónicas.

Asturias
An exquisite market is found in the population of Mieres, in Asturias. It is located in the street Doce de Octubre s/n, nearby to the Park Jovellanos. The market is of a characteristic eclectic and modernist style of the 20th century. It was founded in the year 1907. It occupies one exclusive block on one floor. The façade faces four streets, as do the entrances, which are open arches, headed with triangular pediments. Its high roof allows more light through a row of large windows.

Marbella
The central market in Marbella is situated in the historic centre of Málaga – tourist-driven city of the Costa del Sol. It is a newlybuilt market, inaugurated in February 2004, that replaced a previous one. The market faces three streets, Francisco Quevedo, Avda. Jacinto Benavente and Avda. del Mercado. It has some 90 stalls, including 50 fishmongers, 10 meat markets and 10 fruit and vegetable stands. Although the building is not as attractive as other historic markets the products make it well worth a visit.

This is only a sample of some of Spain's markets, but the certain thing is that there are many more deserving a visit. Some, such as the central market of Valencia, or the Boqueria of Barcelona, are impressive and have become authentic tourist attractions, but all, large and small, sell fantastic fresh produce whose quality reveals the secrets of the best Spanish kitchens.