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The A to Z of wine regions - Cava
By:
Hal Harley  , Friday, October 31, 2003

The origin of the name Cava is probably the result of the differentiation in Spain between the words bodega and cava.  Both mean cellar, but a bodega is traditionally a ground-level cellar, while a cava is underground.
Because sparkling wine develops underground to benefit from constant temperatures during the time spent on its lees (sediment), winemakers refer to their bodega wines (still wines stored above ground) and their cava wines (sparkling wines stored underground, in bottle).

History of cava
The first Cava was made in 1872 by Josep Raventos in the town of Sant Sadurni D’Anoia, in the valley of the river Anoia, in the comarca of Alt-Penedes, in the province of Barcelona, in Catalunya. Some 95% of all Cava comes from Catalunya, and 75% of that is made in and around the town of Sant Sadurni.  However, because some Cava comes from elsewhere, (Aragón, Navarra, La Rioja, Extremadura and the Valencia, and all within the realm of the Cava regulations) we are forbidden to use the geographical name.
Hence there is no regional brand name just for Cava.
Cava’s success has been achieved against a lot of protest from trendy wine writers who were almost united in their distaste for it.  Articles in respected journals described Cava has having an uninspiring character compared to Champagne and the Champagne-wannabes from the new world.  Fortunately, the world’s wine lovers were insisting on buying something they actually enjoyed and could also afford.  Cava sales boomed and by the mid-1990s, it had become the world’s favourite sparkling wine, after Champagne.
It should never be compared with Champagne, it has its own identity and we should enjoy it for what it is, a most enjoyable and refreshing drink, fantastic value-for-money and made
right here in sunny Spain.
The growth of the business in recent years has coincided with the reduction of the length of time the wines were aged.  Previously, and in keeping with the traditional Spanish palate, the maturation period before recorking was for longer periods than in Champagne, so the new style Cava wines are lighter and fresher and more appealing.  In good
winemaking hands, Cava can be a wine of great freshness, fruit and citrus flavours, with a warm, ripe palate and a pleasant lingering finish.  Hard work over many years has been required to achieve this, but by the end of the 1980’s, Cava had become a worthy world-class wine, owing nothing to champagne except its sparkle.
By law, Cava must spend at least nine months on its lees and may not be sold for at least a year.
Most good quality Cava’s spend much longer on their lees, after 18 months they may be called Reserva and after 30 months Gran Reserva.
The vast majority of Catalan Cava’s are made from Xarel-Lo, Parellada,
Macabeo and Monastrell grape varieties, with a few using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, especially for blending.  The other regions mostly use Macabeo (Viura).  Xarel-Lo provides the foundation, weight, power and alcohol, which underpin everything Cava is about, but in the old days, it
suffered from the same oxidation problems as Verdejo did in Rueda.
The result was Cava’s with a ‘rooty’ flavour that was much vilified by north-European wine-writers. These problems have now been solved, however, Parellada is one of the mainstays of Cava and provides the soft creamy base, while Macabeo adds crispness and acidity.
A selection of fine Cava wines were presented by one of the most notable
Cava companies, at La Parilla Del Cellar in Jávea old town (Pueblo) recently.  Agusti Torrello Mata founded his company in the early 1950’s.
Being a master of the craft of making Cava, he set out to establish a company that would become one of the most important in the history of Cava. In 1953, he formed a testing laboratory in order to improve the quality that was so necessary.  Now 50 years later Agusti Torello Mata’s son, who’s name is also Agusti, together with his brother and sister, continue the pioneering work of their father and strive to produce the most personal and best Cava’s in the world. The vines are a minimum of 30 years old, before they pick the grapes, which have developed a more concentrated flavour (less kilo’s = better quality). The Cava’s made for ageing, come from the old concentrated grapes, picked from single vineyards.
The Cava’s tasted were: - 
Brut Reserva 2000 – Macabeo, Xarel-Lo and Parellada (aged for a minimum of two years) with 5.5 grams of sugar added per litre after disgorgement.  Not big on aroma, but it was very fresh and fruity in the mouth – 8 euros.
Brut Nature Gran Reserva 1999  - Macabeo, Xarel-Lo and Parellada
(aged for a minimum of three years) with no sugar added.  The result is a lovely crisp, fruity and refreshing Cava, which was thoroughly enjoyed by most of the tasters (a lot of cases were ordered afterwards) – 11 euros.
Brut Nature Reserva Barrica 2000 – l00% Macabeo with no sugar added.  Fermented in new French oak barrels, before being left to stand on the lees for a further four months.
Fine aromas of fruit and toasty oak, with a smooth and creamy taste – l6.50 euros.
Kripta Brut Nature Gran Reserva 1998 – Macabeo, Xarel-Lo and Parellada from very old vines, with a minimum ageing in the bottle of 48 months and no sugar added.  This Cava is legendary, not just for the quality, but also for the pointy-bottomed bottle, in the style of a Greek amphora (a fantastic piece of marketing).  Having fine aromas of ripe fruit, vanilla and a hint of toast, with an elegant and silky smooth taste, and a long lingering finish.  Around 35 euros if you can find any (the 1999 vintage is already sold out!). 
Some of Spain’s finest Cavas excellently presented and accompanied by some very tasty tapas.  So many thanks to Agusti for bringing his wonderful Cavas and thanks again to Pepe and Francis for arranging another memorable day.

 
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