First stop should be the information office in Torrevieja, a fascinating insight into what lies within this apparently simply stretch of countryside. Covering around 3,700 hectares of which a third consists of salt lakes, the designated walkers’ and cyclists’ routes barely scratch the surface. To a certain degree these lakes are man-made, or at least customised for commercial use, although far from harming the environment, the salt-extraction process ensures that the Lagunas are here to stay and that local authorities will continue to conserve and maintain the area. The saltworks began in the late 18th century, when it was decided that exploiting the lakes for fishing was doomed to failure – the high levels of salt in the water mean that it is impossible for most types of fish to survive. However, one unusual aquatic species did in fact managed to adapt to saline waters and continues to live and breed in the lagoons. The Artemia Salina, - otherwise known as a sea-monkey – is a crustacean that grows to just 10mm (less than half an inch) in length and looks very much like the skeleton of a fish with enormous dark eyes. A large-scale model has been installed in the information office, together with pictures and descriptions of the flora and fauna to be found in the Lagunas. Typical aquatic vegetation is sparse due to the quantity of salt in the lakes, but sea plants are in abundance – glasswort, limonium, sea purslane, sea heather, sea rush and seablite grow densely in the salt-marshes at the edge of the lagoons. Photographs of at least ten different types of bird are on display in the office, including the snowy plover, common shelduck, pied avocet, pink flamingos and the endangered species, montagu’s harrier. Once you have placated your inner seven-year-old by pressing all the buttons to hear the bird noises, and armed yourself with brochures and maps, the journey into nature begins. The entire walk takes around an hour and a half, whilst the cycle route is a little longer at six kilometres. If this is too energetic for you, part of the route can be made in the car as a narrow, deserted road runs around the edge of the park. Paths are clearly marked with yellow arrows for walkers and red for bikes, so there is no danger of becoming lost. On foot, you climb a gentle incline via a sandy trail flanked by rolling fields of sparse grass and tree plantations that are, as yet, little more than shoots. Although the city is still barely visible at this point, every step takes you further from civilisation and a little closer to a tranquil haven. Within just twenty minutes, you are truly out in the country and feel as though you are the only person left in the world. At this point, you will reach an acequión (canal), built to link the sea to the lagoon. Again, without prior knowledge gleaned from the information office, it is impossible to tell that it was not naturally-formed. From the wooden footbridge, the walker can see hundreds of tiny sea-monkeys swimming just below the surface – the water is, of course, crystal-clear. At this point, the trail comes to an abrupt halt before leading off in the opposite direction and the walker passes a number of viewing points, one of which takes you along a wooden jetty to a small hut on the very edge of the lake, a perfect opportunity to watch the birds in their natural environment. The view over the lake is breathtaking – a vast expanse of water like a giant mirror reflecting the majestic, verdant mountains and the sky, lending it an illusion of endless depth. Later, the route takes walkers through a forest carpeted with pine needles, offering some much-needed shade on a hot day, before opening into a clearing where picnic tables and benches are set out for a well-deserved rest. Here, you can sit and enjoy the silence, only broken by the occasional birdsong, eagle’s cry or rustle of wind in the trees. Now at the halfway point, the trail continues in a wide loop that runs close to the shores of the lagoon, before turning back on itself and eventually leading to the information office once again. It seems surprising when, at the end of your tour of Las Lagunas, you find yourself back in the hustle and bustle of Torrevieja – amazing to believe that such a lush, picturesque expanse of countryside could co-exist with this frenetic, vibrant town.
