If you are planning a weekend away from crowded Costa beaches at any stage this summer, you could do a lot worse than a trip to the beautiful city of Segovia (Castilla León) to the north of Madrid.

Roman aqueduct

One of the town´s most recognisable features, it used to carry water from La Acebeda river, 17km away, to the Alcázar castle. Built in the 1st century in the time of Flavius, it is widely held to be the finest example of civil engineering in Spain. Its 166 arches are made from granite from the Guadarrama mountains and remain in place nearly two thousand years later even though no mortar was used in their construction. It is an amazing piece of work where beauty, harmony and practicality are united, and served the city until recently. It remains practically unchanged despite the passage of time although 36 arches had to be repaired in the 15th century after being damaged in an attack in 1072 by the Muslim Al-Maún from Toledo. Two vaulted niches are thought to have been used to worship pagan gods, but these were replaced with images of San Sebastián and the Virgin Mary during the time of the Catholic monarchs.

Cathedral

Late Gothic style, construction started in 1525 funded through local taxation by the Gil de Ontañón family after the Old Cathedral, which was situated in what are now the Alcázar gardens, was destroyed in 1510 during the Community Wars. Cultural events are regularly held in the paved area outside the main entrance known as the Forgiveness Door (Puerta del Perdón) is to the west, the San Gereteo Door, named after the first Bishop of Segovia, is to the south, and the San Frutos Door, named after the city´s patron saint during the 17th century, is to the north. Also of interest is the apse, which is adjacent to the Old Jewish quarter and elaborately decorated with butresses and pinnacles in a florid gothic style made from limestone. The interior dimensions can be defined as grandiose and harmonious. The 16th century stained glass windows are worth more than a cursory glance; as are the 14th century main altar which is dedicated to Our Lady of Peace, the late 15th century choir stalls which were rescued from the Old Cathedral, the handsome Baroque organ, and neo-classical screen surrounding the urn containing the relics of San Frutos. In addition, there are a total of eighteen small chapels which contain many fine paintings and sculptures. 

Alcázar castle

Its outline resembles an imaginary ship overlooking the valley where the Eresma and Clamores rivers meet, illuminated by ochres and blues from the surrounding plains and mountains. It is preceded by well-kept gardens where statues of Independence War heroes Daoiz and Velarde by local sculptor Aniceto Marinas, can be found. To the left is the House of Chemistry, built during the Age of Enlightenment and which now houses the Louis Proust Research Centre. There are splendid views to either side of the castle of the Pinarillo ditrict which is home to the Jewish cemetery and the Church of the Vera Cruz and Zamarramala. A deep ravine spanned by a drawbridge gives access to a fortress in a priviliged location which is believed to have been inhabited since Celtic times. The castle was transformed into an Alcázar (royal palace) during the 13th century and was given a gothic facelift during the reigns of Juan II and Enrique IV. It has been in a permanent state of repair since it was almost destroyed by a serious fire in 1862; restoration work actually began in 1882 during the reign of Alfonso XII. Among the most prominent external features are the Alfonso X The Wise (El Sabio) tower to the north of the structure from where he used to stare at the night sky, and the 80 metre high Juan II tower which is adorned by twelve smaller towers and which visitors can climb to the top of up a circular wooden staircase to enjoy some marvellous views of the city and the surrounding area, including some of the quarries exploited to build the cathedral. Inside there is a fine collection of medieval weaponry and armour, but the real highlights are the Ajimeces Gallery (armour and royal portraits), the Gallery (modern glassware exhibition by local artist Carlos Muñoz de Pablos, and the Royal Hall, (golden rhomboid and hexagonally stuccoed ceiling and an original frieze made up of portraits of all the Kings and Queens of Asturias, León and Castile from Don Pelayo to Juana The Mad).

Local food and drink

Local specialties include roast suckling pig, roast lamb, La Granja broad beans, Castilian soup (made from garlic and bread), meat and game stews, Cantimpalo spicy sausage and ponche (cake), all of which go down very well with wines from the nearby Duero valley, which are considered to be among the finest Spain has to offer. The restaurant at the local Parador, although quite pricey, does offer a wide choice of typical regional dishes cooked in traditional wood-fired ovens and fine views of the surrounding area.

Useful contacts

Tourist Office: Plaza  Mayor, 10 - 40001 Segovia. Tel: 00 34 92 146 0334  

Parador de Segovia: Ctra. Valladolid,s/n, 40003 Segovia. Tel: 00 34 92 144 3737. Fax: 00 34 92 143 7362