ONCE again, Spain holds more blue flags for its beaches and marinas than any other country in the world – a record it has held without interruption for 30 years.
Visiting La Laguna in its 20th UNESCO year
26/10/2019
IT'S NOT just an easy destination for European holidaymakers seeking sunshine and superb beaches – although it is that as well, we can't deny it. But Spain is home to more UNESCO heritage sites than anywhere else in the world besides China and Italy, making it the perfect spot for culture vultures and ideal for exploring at any time of the year, not just the height of summer.
Now is a good time to visit one of its UNESCO sites – the centre of San Cristóbal de la Laguna in Tenerife, the original capital of the island and the first of Spain's colonial cities without a boundary wall that retains its ancient design almost intact.
When it was founded by the Spanish colonisers, its location was deliberate: water was abundant thanks to the now-defunct lagoon which gave the city its name, it was far enough from the coast to be safe from pirates, and tucked in the Aguere valley, right on the edge of the Anaga mountain, it was protected enough that it did not need a fortress built around it.
Built in 1496, it would become a UNESCO heritage site 503 years later, and now, the city council is organising a series of exhibitions, guided tours and other events to mark the 20th anniversary of this prestigious title.
Once there, you'll see why it was chosen. Not only for its history as an example of modern urban management in the 16th century, but also for its splendid architecture and brightly-coloured buildings – flamboyant enough to rival the psychedelic tones of Brazil's former capital, Salvador de Bahia, or the much-visited Bo Kaap neighbourhood in Cape Town, or the fishermen's houses on the coast of Villajoyosa (Alicante province).
Constructed on a 'grid', the work of Italian engineer Leonardo Torriani who got the job of reorganising it about a century after it was founded, La Laguna – as it is commonly known – was considered revolutionary for its time, but you won't find it in the package holiday brochures.
Chances are you'll be offered a day trip there if you're based in a beach resort area anywhere else in Tenerife, but it's worth making this your main purpose of visiting the largest of the Canary Islands (as well as Teide National Park, of course, where you can take a cable car to the top and walk into the crater of the volcano).
The city centre: Dazzling colours and volcanic stone
You can stroll around yourself in your own time if you prefer, although guided tours are available in several languages for a token fee – less than €10, normally. Either way, the recommended starting point is the Plaza del Adelantado in the ancient quarters known as the Villa Abajo, literally 'downtown'. A rectangular central hub based on the typical Renaissance design, its focal point is a hefty marble fountain weighing 30 tonnes which was built in France in 1869 and transported over by sea. The Plaza itself was named in honour of Alonso Fernández de Lugo, who colonised the island and who earned the prestigious title of Adelantado, given at the time by the Kingdom of Castilla to those who showed outstanding achievements in their military career.
The site of the Canaries' first-ever university, La Laguna was long known as the 'intellectual capital' of the region, and great thinkers and philosophers would meet at the Nava y Grimón House in the 17th century to hold debates about cultural, political and religious issues. Their palaver headquarters (second photograph) is built in the original Spanish Baroque style – what was known as the 'Baroque' before the version from the rest of Europe interfered with it, or from heavy masonry blocks rather than the intricate, decorative style that eventually found its way to Spain from elsewhere on the continent – and was constructed entirely from volcanic stone; you'll find it next to the Santa Catalina de Siena Convent Church.
The Casa de la Alhóndiga, colonial-style with wooden lattice windows and a pale blue façade, is one of three stunning buildings on the C/ de la Carrera just off the main square – an 18th-century structure that served firstly to store wheat, then became the offices of the island government or Cabildo, later a prison, then a school, and a court building, it is now used by the local council. Adjoining it is the Casa del Corregidor (third photograph), or co-sheriff's house, technically one of the oldest in the city as it was constructed in 1540, although it has undergone so many renovations since that the only part remaining of the original structure is the red volcanic rock entrance. An absolute must-see is the Casa de los Capitanes, or 'House of the Captains', sometimes referred to as the Alvarado Bracamonte House after the military leader who had it built in the early 17th century. Yellow on the outside, a tourist information office on the inside, its interior houses a stunning patio surrounded by a magnificent wooden balcony, and a walnut tree said to be over 200 years old.
One of the most striking sites in the city is, arguably, its cathedral (fourth photograph), dedicated to the patron saint of Tenerife, the Virgen de los Remedios – a small hermitage chapel built in her honour on the same site in the 16th century is now the parish church which is the subject of a pilgrimage on her 'saint's day' festival every year – a neo-classical work of art which takes its inspiration from the cathedral in the northern mainland city of Pamplona and which was shut for 12 years for major restoration works until 2014.
Once at the end of the C/ de la Carrera, you'll come to one of the oldest churches on the island, home to the biggest church bell in the whole of the Canaries – the La Concepción, whose majestic colonial-style tower stands a formidable 28 metres (nearly 93 feet) above the district known as Villa Arriba, or 'uptown', and is one of the most iconic symbols of La Laguna, a typical postcard shot for the city (first photograph).
Beyond the centre: Mountains, valleys and rural settlements
The Villa Arriba was the artisans' and craftsmen's district for centuries, whilst the Villa Abajo was the main centre of political and religious power – and the arty aspect remains, albeit in a different format. Among La Laguna's pedestrianised central streets, you'll come across buskers, boutiques selling handicrafts, and vintage stores tucked away between avant-garde designer clothing outlets, restaurants and olde-worlde-style taverns. Ancient and modern fuse together seamlessly – in the outskirts of the city, for example, you'll find the Canary Islands' first-ever airport, now known as Tenerife North.
If you still can't handle the idea of being in the Canaries without a beach, the Punta de Hidalgo area a few kilometres out is 'owned' by La Laguna and is replete with natural pools, a modern lighthouse, and a splendid shoreline in its tourist neighbourhood, Bajamar.
For those keen to explore the outer parts of the city, the rural settlements of El Batán and Las Carboneras give way to the Anaga Rural Park, a breathtaking mountain range of sharp volcanic rock formations, fossils dating back 40 million years, petrified wood coated in a blanket of thick moss, valleys and ravines that plunge down towards the sea, carpeted with emerald-green forest, home to endangered species of flora and fauna – especially birds of prey - and, as one of the oldest parts of the island, geologically, will make you feel as though you're stepping back into prehistoric times.
It remains home to around 2,000 inhabitants who live in 26 rural settlements and survive entirely off farming, mostly potatoes, grapes and varied fruit orchards – a lifestyle that the passage of time barely seems to have made a dent on.
The Anaga mountains spill out into the municipal boundaries of the island's capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, and of the nearby town of Tegueste, and are easy to reach by car along the TF-11, TF-12 and TF-134, or by bus – take the 76, 77, 273, 274 or 275 from La Laguna centre or the 945 or 947 from Santa Cruz.
Otherwise, organised visits include hiking, mountain biking and horse riding, the waves at the foot are ideal for surfing, sailing or scuba-diving, and the fine volcanic beach is remote enough for an afternoon's peaceful sunbathing and paddling after touring the valleys.
All this is merely a smattering of the sights that await you in La Laguna – probably less than 10% of the ornate, picturesque buildings and dramatic green countryside in and around the city, and our taster here barely touches on the colonial history of Tenerife. But don't take our word for it – add it to your travel wish-list and don't forget to factor in plenty of extra time to explore the parts we haven't had space to mention.
Photographs by Tenerife tourist board and from the blog La Gaveta Voladora
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IT'S NOT just an easy destination for European holidaymakers seeking sunshine and superb beaches – although it is that as well, we can't deny it. But Spain is home to more UNESCO heritage sites than anywhere else in the world besides China and Italy, making it the perfect spot for culture vultures and ideal for exploring at any time of the year, not just the height of summer.
Now is a good time to visit one of its UNESCO sites – the centre of San Cristóbal de la Laguna in Tenerife, the original capital of the island and the first of Spain's colonial cities without a boundary wall that retains its ancient design almost intact.
When it was founded by the Spanish colonisers, its location was deliberate: water was abundant thanks to the now-defunct lagoon which gave the city its name, it was far enough from the coast to be safe from pirates, and tucked in the Aguere valley, right on the edge of the Anaga mountain, it was protected enough that it did not need a fortress built around it.
Built in 1496, it would become a UNESCO heritage site 503 years later, and now, the city council is organising a series of exhibitions, guided tours and other events to mark the 20th anniversary of this prestigious title.
Once there, you'll see why it was chosen. Not only for its history as an example of modern urban management in the 16th century, but also for its splendid architecture and brightly-coloured buildings – flamboyant enough to rival the psychedelic tones of Brazil's former capital, Salvador de Bahia, or the much-visited Bo Kaap neighbourhood in Cape Town, or the fishermen's houses on the coast of Villajoyosa (Alicante province).
Constructed on a 'grid', the work of Italian engineer Leonardo Torriani who got the job of reorganising it about a century after it was founded, La Laguna – as it is commonly known – was considered revolutionary for its time, but you won't find it in the package holiday brochures.
Chances are you'll be offered a day trip there if you're based in a beach resort area anywhere else in Tenerife, but it's worth making this your main purpose of visiting the largest of the Canary Islands (as well as Teide National Park, of course, where you can take a cable car to the top and walk into the crater of the volcano).
The city centre: Dazzling colours and volcanic stone
You can stroll around yourself in your own time if you prefer, although guided tours are available in several languages for a token fee – less than €10, normally. Either way, the recommended starting point is the Plaza del Adelantado in the ancient quarters known as the Villa Abajo, literally 'downtown'. A rectangular central hub based on the typical Renaissance design, its focal point is a hefty marble fountain weighing 30 tonnes which was built in France in 1869 and transported over by sea. The Plaza itself was named in honour of Alonso Fernández de Lugo, who colonised the island and who earned the prestigious title of Adelantado, given at the time by the Kingdom of Castilla to those who showed outstanding achievements in their military career.
The site of the Canaries' first-ever university, La Laguna was long known as the 'intellectual capital' of the region, and great thinkers and philosophers would meet at the Nava y Grimón House in the 17th century to hold debates about cultural, political and religious issues. Their palaver headquarters (second photograph) is built in the original Spanish Baroque style – what was known as the 'Baroque' before the version from the rest of Europe interfered with it, or from heavy masonry blocks rather than the intricate, decorative style that eventually found its way to Spain from elsewhere on the continent – and was constructed entirely from volcanic stone; you'll find it next to the Santa Catalina de Siena Convent Church.
The Casa de la Alhóndiga, colonial-style with wooden lattice windows and a pale blue façade, is one of three stunning buildings on the C/ de la Carrera just off the main square – an 18th-century structure that served firstly to store wheat, then became the offices of the island government or Cabildo, later a prison, then a school, and a court building, it is now used by the local council. Adjoining it is the Casa del Corregidor (third photograph), or co-sheriff's house, technically one of the oldest in the city as it was constructed in 1540, although it has undergone so many renovations since that the only part remaining of the original structure is the red volcanic rock entrance. An absolute must-see is the Casa de los Capitanes, or 'House of the Captains', sometimes referred to as the Alvarado Bracamonte House after the military leader who had it built in the early 17th century. Yellow on the outside, a tourist information office on the inside, its interior houses a stunning patio surrounded by a magnificent wooden balcony, and a walnut tree said to be over 200 years old.
One of the most striking sites in the city is, arguably, its cathedral (fourth photograph), dedicated to the patron saint of Tenerife, the Virgen de los Remedios – a small hermitage chapel built in her honour on the same site in the 16th century is now the parish church which is the subject of a pilgrimage on her 'saint's day' festival every year – a neo-classical work of art which takes its inspiration from the cathedral in the northern mainland city of Pamplona and which was shut for 12 years for major restoration works until 2014.
Once at the end of the C/ de la Carrera, you'll come to one of the oldest churches on the island, home to the biggest church bell in the whole of the Canaries – the La Concepción, whose majestic colonial-style tower stands a formidable 28 metres (nearly 93 feet) above the district known as Villa Arriba, or 'uptown', and is one of the most iconic symbols of La Laguna, a typical postcard shot for the city (first photograph).
Beyond the centre: Mountains, valleys and rural settlements
The Villa Arriba was the artisans' and craftsmen's district for centuries, whilst the Villa Abajo was the main centre of political and religious power – and the arty aspect remains, albeit in a different format. Among La Laguna's pedestrianised central streets, you'll come across buskers, boutiques selling handicrafts, and vintage stores tucked away between avant-garde designer clothing outlets, restaurants and olde-worlde-style taverns. Ancient and modern fuse together seamlessly – in the outskirts of the city, for example, you'll find the Canary Islands' first-ever airport, now known as Tenerife North.
If you still can't handle the idea of being in the Canaries without a beach, the Punta de Hidalgo area a few kilometres out is 'owned' by La Laguna and is replete with natural pools, a modern lighthouse, and a splendid shoreline in its tourist neighbourhood, Bajamar.
For those keen to explore the outer parts of the city, the rural settlements of El Batán and Las Carboneras give way to the Anaga Rural Park, a breathtaking mountain range of sharp volcanic rock formations, fossils dating back 40 million years, petrified wood coated in a blanket of thick moss, valleys and ravines that plunge down towards the sea, carpeted with emerald-green forest, home to endangered species of flora and fauna – especially birds of prey - and, as one of the oldest parts of the island, geologically, will make you feel as though you're stepping back into prehistoric times.
It remains home to around 2,000 inhabitants who live in 26 rural settlements and survive entirely off farming, mostly potatoes, grapes and varied fruit orchards – a lifestyle that the passage of time barely seems to have made a dent on.
The Anaga mountains spill out into the municipal boundaries of the island's capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, and of the nearby town of Tegueste, and are easy to reach by car along the TF-11, TF-12 and TF-134, or by bus – take the 76, 77, 273, 274 or 275 from La Laguna centre or the 945 or 947 from Santa Cruz.
Otherwise, organised visits include hiking, mountain biking and horse riding, the waves at the foot are ideal for surfing, sailing or scuba-diving, and the fine volcanic beach is remote enough for an afternoon's peaceful sunbathing and paddling after touring the valleys.
All this is merely a smattering of the sights that await you in La Laguna – probably less than 10% of the ornate, picturesque buildings and dramatic green countryside in and around the city, and our taster here barely touches on the colonial history of Tenerife. But don't take our word for it – add it to your travel wish-list and don't forget to factor in plenty of extra time to explore the parts we haven't had space to mention.
Photographs by Tenerife tourist board and from the blog La Gaveta Voladora
Related Topics
You may also be interested in ...
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