ONCE again, Spain holds more blue flags for its beaches and marinas than any other country in the world – a record it has held without interruption for 30 years.
The quiet life: Seven coastal towns with fewer than 1,000 inhabitants
30/08/2020
LOVE the beach, but hate crowds? Seeking small-community life, but don't want to have to pass up on hearing the waves crash outside your window, or wandering down to the sands to catch the rays in summer?
Firstly, there's a peculiarity about some of Spain's best-loved coasts: Medium-sized and small towns which aren't on the package resort trail (but would be, if anyone found out about them) often have so many kilometres of beaches that it's perfectly possible to find at least one where you could park a caravan between you and the next bather, never mind a towel, and still be socially-distanced enough that you can barely hear their conversation. Also, many coastal towns, including those of quite a fair size, are effectively split into two, with the main hub or 'urban' area separated by a short distance (often walkable, or at least no more than a five- or 10-minute drive) from a residential beach 'nucleus' made up almost entirely of second homes that are only lived in during the high summer months. Year-round residents here are few enough that they all get to know each other, and these zones tend to be very peaceful out of season – a period which encompasses most of June and all of September, when the sun is still plenty warm enough to catch a tan and go for a swim in the sea.
Secondly, not every coastal town is particularly large. Whilst, clearly, being such popular locations, most have become built up (albeit tastefully in a lot of cases) over the years – to cater for locals, if not tourists, and for land-locked Spaniards seeking their fill of sea air – a significant minority remain small villages.
We found seven, just off the top of our heads, all with fewer than 1,000 inhabitants – although, of course, a 'village' is typically considered to be a municipality with fewer than around 6,000 inhabitants, so if you take the literal definition, it ups your choices dramatically.
None of these 1,000-or-fewer towns is on the Costa del Sol, although small villages just a few kilometres from the coast abound in the province, so unless you actually want to smell the sea air and hear the tides from your terrace, you can still include the beach as a major feature of your everyday life without having to set up home in an urban sprawl.
The same is true of many other coastal provinces in Spain – but if seafront and village life combined is your cup of café cortado, check out these.
Calella de Palafrugell, Girona province
Who'd have thought you could find a beach town right on the Costa Brava with only 733 residents? Well, this picturesque little enclave still looks just like the traditional fishing village it was centuries ago. That's because it still is the traditional fishing village it was centuries ago: Most of its inhabitants are retired and come from families that have been fishermen for several generations, and those who are not retired largely continue to fish for their living.
Calella de Palafrugell (picture two, by Travelinho on Wikimedia Commons) – politically part of the larger town of Palafrugell but some distance from it - is completely free from high-rise hotels, despite being used to foreign visitors and settlers, and is even the home of a huge summer music festival.
This takes place in the Cap Roig botanical gardens and artists who have performed there in the past include Spanish chart-toppers Hombres G, Els Manel and Joan Manuel Serrat...and Sir Elton John.
Fornells, Menorca
Smaller and less rich in arts, entertainment, attractions and dramatic rural and urban visitor sites than its neighbour Mallorca, larger in size but with only two-thirds of the inhabitants of its other neighbour Ibiza, Menorca has not escaped the package resorts, but like the Balearic Islands as a whole, these are very easy to avoid if they don't really float your boat (or can merely be used as an inexpensive base from which to explore the beauty of these underrated little enclaves).
As the easternmost of the Balearic Islands, and therefore the easternmost part of Spain, Menorca's sunset happens later than other parts of the country in the same time zone – over an hour later than in north-western Galicia – giving you more daylight to spend on the beach.
And with just 976 residents, the tied hamlet of Fornells – politically part of Es Mercadal, but continually campaigning for its independence – its whitewashed low-rise houses, 17th-century castle and quiet streets sit right on a fishing port and beach. Hotels and tourist apartments with sea views are available, but even in high season, it still feels very 'local'. (See picture three, by Nikodem Nijaki on Wikimedia Commons).
Agua Amarga, Almería province
Again, politically 'owned' by a larger town (Níjar) despite being some distance away from it, if you moved to Agua Amarga you'd only be the 405th inhabitant. But if all that peace and quiet starts to get to you, it's not far to drive to the city of Almería and to other, larger municipalities like Carboneras, El Llano de Don Antonio, Al Argamasón and Fernán Pérez. Just far enough away that you can forget they exist if you want to feel as though you're only one-405th of the world.
Here, too, you'll have one of Spain's most beautiful, rural beaches in your back garden: The whole of Agua Amarga is in the heart of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar protected coastal nature reserve. That means it can never become built-up or high-rise, because of national conservation orders strictly controlling any development.
Despite its quaint, tranquil, countryside feel, it's not hard to find companies offering courses or outings in canoeing, water-skiing, paddle-surfing, wakeboarding and diving, the latter covering all levels of PADI qualifications.
The volcanic landscape beyond the village offers a panoramic view totally untouched by buildings, although the beach is fully-equipped for locals and visitors with the usual toilet blocks, bins, wooden walkways, showers, foot-showers and so on.
This means it can get busy in high summer, but the rest of the year it feels as though it's all yours. (See first picture, by Ziegler175 on Wikimedia Commons).
Tazones, Asturias
If you want to escape the package holiday crowds altogether, the north coast is the place to settle. Not that it's always necessarily quiet and deserted – if you want a bit of life and activity, but without the hordes of northern Europeans whose love affair with Spain keeps them loyally supporting our tourism industry, you'll find it anywhere from Galicia to the Basque Country along the northern strip of the mainland.
And you're also more likely to find small towns, close-knit communities and quaint little villages near the coast – such as Tazones, a parish of the larger Villaviciosa (11 kilometres away) made up of five tiny hamlets or residential hubs. (See picture four, from Wikimedia Commons).
Population data from recent years are not available, but the figure of 254 inhabitants from 2006 is a fairly faithful reflection of what modern Tazones looks like, and the largest of its hamlets is San Miguel (Samiguel in the regional language, asturianu), with 126 residents. Three of the others – Villar, San Roque and La Atalaya, or L'Atalaya – range from 40 to 60 each, with Les Mestes, or Las Mestas, reportedly only home to five people.
Tazones is home to one of Asturias' 18 fishing ports, and the hubs of San Roque and San Miguel combined were declared heritage sites nearly 30 years ago.
San Miguel's church is surprisingly modern, given this – 1950 – but that's because the original was burnt down during the Civil War.
If you have kids, some of the unusual features of Tazones will hold huge appeal for them: The Casa de las Conchas ('House of Shells'), in San Roque, is exactly what it says on the tin, a house completely covered in shells, and on the stony bit of the beach, dinosaur footprints have been discovered. An information plaque on the shore tells you all about their discovery in 2018.
Tabarca, Alicante province
This is one of three seaside villages of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants we recommend in the Comunidad Valenciana, which stretches down the middle bit of mainland Spain's Mediterranean coast. And Tabarca is in fact an island, with only 50 residents, accessible from Alicante city (20 kilometres away) or from the lively beach holiday town of Santa Pola (10 kilometres away) by ferry.
It means you'll have to put up with day-trippers, but you would be hard-pushed to find a town with cleaner air: The whole island is car-free, and local public transport is by horse and cart.
Overflowing with splendid architecture, Tabarca is also a verdant Eden – home to Spain's first-ever marine reserve and with acres of open countryside perfect for spotting rare birds of prey.
It nearly became the 'Monaco of Spain' a few centuries ago when it was earmarked as a site for a major European palace complex, and retains an essence of éliteness despite its diminutive proportions and olde worlde air – the main street, the Carrer Mig, has been described as Tabarca's 'Fifth Avenue'. Read our full article on this fascinating slice of paradise here, which will also tell you about its links to ex-POTUS Barack Obama.
La Llosa, Castellón province
Tiny, but perfectly accessible – this village of just 940 inhabitants right on the beach is in the district, or 'mini-county' of La Plana Baixa, bordering onto the province of Valencia to the south, close to the city of Castellón via the N-340 national highway or A-7 motorway, served by the Castellón and Valencia outer suburban rail network, and a short drive from the neighbouring towns of Xilxes, La Vall d'Uixó and Almenara.
This strategic location also means it's served comfortably by two airports – those of Valencia and of Castellón.
Its beach is virtually unspoilt, except for its wooden seafront esplanade – which only adds character to it anyway – and it is surrounded by stunning countryside, including the El Carcau nature reserve and the Monte Michero pine forest. And despite how small it is, being self-contained means La Llosa has to 'fend for itself' rather than relying on facilities in adjoining municipalities, so it has everything you need on the doorstep, right through to sports centres, library, gym, football field, supermarkets and bars.
Bird-watching is popular near La Llosa, since the coastal salt-flats and rice fields that run into the beach are home to numerous rare species – and the sunset reflecting off the marshes and the five natural springs within it is said to be one of the most sublime views on earth.
Guardamar de la Safor, Valencia province
Another village by the sea that's conveniently close enough to larger towns – such as Oliva (26,000 inhabitants), Gandia (75,000 residents) – and to neighbouring villages only slightly bigger, Guardamar de la Safor is a short drive to the Alicante province border, meaning you're on the very edge of the 'expat belt', but can easily pretend it doesn't exist if you want a total Spanish immersion.
Home to just 526 inhabitants, Guardamar de la Safor's visual attractiveness lies not so much in historical heritage detail (it doesn't really have much; the 17th-century church was renovated in the 19th century, and although the town was founded in the Middle Ages, there's little to show for it) as in how neat and clean it looks. Its local council took advantage of regional, national and EU development grants for boring-but-useful stuff like roadworks, and the result is pedestrianised streets, good-quality driving roads, landscaped squares, and lots of general maintenance that gives it a very tidy appearance. The buildings come in a rainbow of pastel colours, as well as the usual white, which seems to enhance natural light and gives it an uplifting, cheerful appearance and makes even the most ordinary residential street instantly Instagrammable and Mediterranean-looking. (See picture five, by Joanbanjo on Wikimedia Commons).
Its beach is bordered by grassy dunes and, although most of the seafront property is apartment blocks, these are set in a small cluster so as to take up as little land as possible, and there are few enough of them that they do not affect the view – you certainly don't feel as though you're in a high-rise zone. Good roads to and around the beach mean there are just enough shops and bars and parking spaces for convenience, but its clever design gives you the feel of being on an unspoilt, rural stretch of shore.
Practically all beachgoers are local residents, with the occasional tourist from elsewhere in Spain – the coast of this district or 'mini-county', La Safor, is also reasonably popular with French holidaymakers – so it's rarely packed to the brim.
Perfect for a combination of a village community, beach life and a modern environment close to all amenities, without compromising on 'Spanishness'.
And its biggest hook, right now, is the fact that it's one of a long list of towns and villages in the Comunidad Valenciana which have never had a single case of Covid-19 (actually, La Llosa only had four and hasn't had any for at least a couple of months). The above link will give you a breakdown of those (and also 28 in the province of Málaga) – as well as a picture of Guardamar de la Safor's beach, so you can see for yourself what we mean about its high-rise-but-not-high-rise design.
Related Topics
LOVE the beach, but hate crowds? Seeking small-community life, but don't want to have to pass up on hearing the waves crash outside your window, or wandering down to the sands to catch the rays in summer?
Firstly, there's a peculiarity about some of Spain's best-loved coasts: Medium-sized and small towns which aren't on the package resort trail (but would be, if anyone found out about them) often have so many kilometres of beaches that it's perfectly possible to find at least one where you could park a caravan between you and the next bather, never mind a towel, and still be socially-distanced enough that you can barely hear their conversation. Also, many coastal towns, including those of quite a fair size, are effectively split into two, with the main hub or 'urban' area separated by a short distance (often walkable, or at least no more than a five- or 10-minute drive) from a residential beach 'nucleus' made up almost entirely of second homes that are only lived in during the high summer months. Year-round residents here are few enough that they all get to know each other, and these zones tend to be very peaceful out of season – a period which encompasses most of June and all of September, when the sun is still plenty warm enough to catch a tan and go for a swim in the sea.
Secondly, not every coastal town is particularly large. Whilst, clearly, being such popular locations, most have become built up (albeit tastefully in a lot of cases) over the years – to cater for locals, if not tourists, and for land-locked Spaniards seeking their fill of sea air – a significant minority remain small villages.
We found seven, just off the top of our heads, all with fewer than 1,000 inhabitants – although, of course, a 'village' is typically considered to be a municipality with fewer than around 6,000 inhabitants, so if you take the literal definition, it ups your choices dramatically.
None of these 1,000-or-fewer towns is on the Costa del Sol, although small villages just a few kilometres from the coast abound in the province, so unless you actually want to smell the sea air and hear the tides from your terrace, you can still include the beach as a major feature of your everyday life without having to set up home in an urban sprawl.
The same is true of many other coastal provinces in Spain – but if seafront and village life combined is your cup of café cortado, check out these.
Calella de Palafrugell, Girona province
Who'd have thought you could find a beach town right on the Costa Brava with only 733 residents? Well, this picturesque little enclave still looks just like the traditional fishing village it was centuries ago. That's because it still is the traditional fishing village it was centuries ago: Most of its inhabitants are retired and come from families that have been fishermen for several generations, and those who are not retired largely continue to fish for their living.
Calella de Palafrugell (picture two, by Travelinho on Wikimedia Commons) – politically part of the larger town of Palafrugell but some distance from it - is completely free from high-rise hotels, despite being used to foreign visitors and settlers, and is even the home of a huge summer music festival.
This takes place in the Cap Roig botanical gardens and artists who have performed there in the past include Spanish chart-toppers Hombres G, Els Manel and Joan Manuel Serrat...and Sir Elton John.
Fornells, Menorca
Smaller and less rich in arts, entertainment, attractions and dramatic rural and urban visitor sites than its neighbour Mallorca, larger in size but with only two-thirds of the inhabitants of its other neighbour Ibiza, Menorca has not escaped the package resorts, but like the Balearic Islands as a whole, these are very easy to avoid if they don't really float your boat (or can merely be used as an inexpensive base from which to explore the beauty of these underrated little enclaves).
As the easternmost of the Balearic Islands, and therefore the easternmost part of Spain, Menorca's sunset happens later than other parts of the country in the same time zone – over an hour later than in north-western Galicia – giving you more daylight to spend on the beach.
And with just 976 residents, the tied hamlet of Fornells – politically part of Es Mercadal, but continually campaigning for its independence – its whitewashed low-rise houses, 17th-century castle and quiet streets sit right on a fishing port and beach. Hotels and tourist apartments with sea views are available, but even in high season, it still feels very 'local'. (See picture three, by Nikodem Nijaki on Wikimedia Commons).
Agua Amarga, Almería province
Again, politically 'owned' by a larger town (Níjar) despite being some distance away from it, if you moved to Agua Amarga you'd only be the 405th inhabitant. But if all that peace and quiet starts to get to you, it's not far to drive to the city of Almería and to other, larger municipalities like Carboneras, El Llano de Don Antonio, Al Argamasón and Fernán Pérez. Just far enough away that you can forget they exist if you want to feel as though you're only one-405th of the world.
Here, too, you'll have one of Spain's most beautiful, rural beaches in your back garden: The whole of Agua Amarga is in the heart of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar protected coastal nature reserve. That means it can never become built-up or high-rise, because of national conservation orders strictly controlling any development.
Despite its quaint, tranquil, countryside feel, it's not hard to find companies offering courses or outings in canoeing, water-skiing, paddle-surfing, wakeboarding and diving, the latter covering all levels of PADI qualifications.
The volcanic landscape beyond the village offers a panoramic view totally untouched by buildings, although the beach is fully-equipped for locals and visitors with the usual toilet blocks, bins, wooden walkways, showers, foot-showers and so on.
This means it can get busy in high summer, but the rest of the year it feels as though it's all yours. (See first picture, by Ziegler175 on Wikimedia Commons).
Tazones, Asturias
If you want to escape the package holiday crowds altogether, the north coast is the place to settle. Not that it's always necessarily quiet and deserted – if you want a bit of life and activity, but without the hordes of northern Europeans whose love affair with Spain keeps them loyally supporting our tourism industry, you'll find it anywhere from Galicia to the Basque Country along the northern strip of the mainland.
And you're also more likely to find small towns, close-knit communities and quaint little villages near the coast – such as Tazones, a parish of the larger Villaviciosa (11 kilometres away) made up of five tiny hamlets or residential hubs. (See picture four, from Wikimedia Commons).
Population data from recent years are not available, but the figure of 254 inhabitants from 2006 is a fairly faithful reflection of what modern Tazones looks like, and the largest of its hamlets is San Miguel (Samiguel in the regional language, asturianu), with 126 residents. Three of the others – Villar, San Roque and La Atalaya, or L'Atalaya – range from 40 to 60 each, with Les Mestes, or Las Mestas, reportedly only home to five people.
Tazones is home to one of Asturias' 18 fishing ports, and the hubs of San Roque and San Miguel combined were declared heritage sites nearly 30 years ago.
San Miguel's church is surprisingly modern, given this – 1950 – but that's because the original was burnt down during the Civil War.
If you have kids, some of the unusual features of Tazones will hold huge appeal for them: The Casa de las Conchas ('House of Shells'), in San Roque, is exactly what it says on the tin, a house completely covered in shells, and on the stony bit of the beach, dinosaur footprints have been discovered. An information plaque on the shore tells you all about their discovery in 2018.
Tabarca, Alicante province
This is one of three seaside villages of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants we recommend in the Comunidad Valenciana, which stretches down the middle bit of mainland Spain's Mediterranean coast. And Tabarca is in fact an island, with only 50 residents, accessible from Alicante city (20 kilometres away) or from the lively beach holiday town of Santa Pola (10 kilometres away) by ferry.
It means you'll have to put up with day-trippers, but you would be hard-pushed to find a town with cleaner air: The whole island is car-free, and local public transport is by horse and cart.
Overflowing with splendid architecture, Tabarca is also a verdant Eden – home to Spain's first-ever marine reserve and with acres of open countryside perfect for spotting rare birds of prey.
It nearly became the 'Monaco of Spain' a few centuries ago when it was earmarked as a site for a major European palace complex, and retains an essence of éliteness despite its diminutive proportions and olde worlde air – the main street, the Carrer Mig, has been described as Tabarca's 'Fifth Avenue'. Read our full article on this fascinating slice of paradise here, which will also tell you about its links to ex-POTUS Barack Obama.
La Llosa, Castellón province
Tiny, but perfectly accessible – this village of just 940 inhabitants right on the beach is in the district, or 'mini-county' of La Plana Baixa, bordering onto the province of Valencia to the south, close to the city of Castellón via the N-340 national highway or A-7 motorway, served by the Castellón and Valencia outer suburban rail network, and a short drive from the neighbouring towns of Xilxes, La Vall d'Uixó and Almenara.
This strategic location also means it's served comfortably by two airports – those of Valencia and of Castellón.
Its beach is virtually unspoilt, except for its wooden seafront esplanade – which only adds character to it anyway – and it is surrounded by stunning countryside, including the El Carcau nature reserve and the Monte Michero pine forest. And despite how small it is, being self-contained means La Llosa has to 'fend for itself' rather than relying on facilities in adjoining municipalities, so it has everything you need on the doorstep, right through to sports centres, library, gym, football field, supermarkets and bars.
Bird-watching is popular near La Llosa, since the coastal salt-flats and rice fields that run into the beach are home to numerous rare species – and the sunset reflecting off the marshes and the five natural springs within it is said to be one of the most sublime views on earth.
Guardamar de la Safor, Valencia province
Another village by the sea that's conveniently close enough to larger towns – such as Oliva (26,000 inhabitants), Gandia (75,000 residents) – and to neighbouring villages only slightly bigger, Guardamar de la Safor is a short drive to the Alicante province border, meaning you're on the very edge of the 'expat belt', but can easily pretend it doesn't exist if you want a total Spanish immersion.
Home to just 526 inhabitants, Guardamar de la Safor's visual attractiveness lies not so much in historical heritage detail (it doesn't really have much; the 17th-century church was renovated in the 19th century, and although the town was founded in the Middle Ages, there's little to show for it) as in how neat and clean it looks. Its local council took advantage of regional, national and EU development grants for boring-but-useful stuff like roadworks, and the result is pedestrianised streets, good-quality driving roads, landscaped squares, and lots of general maintenance that gives it a very tidy appearance. The buildings come in a rainbow of pastel colours, as well as the usual white, which seems to enhance natural light and gives it an uplifting, cheerful appearance and makes even the most ordinary residential street instantly Instagrammable and Mediterranean-looking. (See picture five, by Joanbanjo on Wikimedia Commons).
Its beach is bordered by grassy dunes and, although most of the seafront property is apartment blocks, these are set in a small cluster so as to take up as little land as possible, and there are few enough of them that they do not affect the view – you certainly don't feel as though you're in a high-rise zone. Good roads to and around the beach mean there are just enough shops and bars and parking spaces for convenience, but its clever design gives you the feel of being on an unspoilt, rural stretch of shore.
Practically all beachgoers are local residents, with the occasional tourist from elsewhere in Spain – the coast of this district or 'mini-county', La Safor, is also reasonably popular with French holidaymakers – so it's rarely packed to the brim.
Perfect for a combination of a village community, beach life and a modern environment close to all amenities, without compromising on 'Spanishness'.
And its biggest hook, right now, is the fact that it's one of a long list of towns and villages in the Comunidad Valenciana which have never had a single case of Covid-19 (actually, La Llosa only had four and hasn't had any for at least a couple of months). The above link will give you a breakdown of those (and also 28 in the province of Málaga) – as well as a picture of Guardamar de la Safor's beach, so you can see for yourself what we mean about its high-rise-but-not-high-rise design.
Related Topics
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