'Eat out European-style': Spanish restaurants call for early-bird diners

But a temporary 'curfew' across the country, with everyone having to be indoors by midnight or, in some regions, as early as 22.00, means the usual dead-of-night dining is off the agenda.

Eateries throughout Spain are worried this will mean a drop in custom, except for those based in cosmopolitan areas with an international clientèle who turn up for their meals out at 19.00 or 20.00, or even as early as 18.00.

So they have started a nationwide campaign urging Spaniards – and long-term expats who have got used to national habits – to 'dine like they do in Europe'.

The association Hostelería de España ('Spain Hotel and Catering') wants people to carry on eating out in the evening, but to start earlier – typically at 20.00 rather than the usual 21.00 or 22.00.

This is especially the case in regions such as Castilla y León and Catalunya, where the 'curfew' starts at 22.00 and, in the former, a multiple mix of European residents is rare, but will also help keep restaurants open in regions such as the Comunidad Valenciana on the east coast, where the 'curfew' starts at midnight and where literally hundreds of nationalities all live together in the same communities.

About 270,000 restaurants throughout the country have joined the 'Go European' campaign and are brandishing the hashtags #AdelantaTuCena ('bring your evening meal forward') and #SalvemosLaHosteleria ('Save the Restaurant Industry'), with a logo featuring a plate-cover bearing the time of 20.00.

One of Spain's most useful quirks is the fact that members of the public can often, during 'normal' times, waltz into a restaurant at 23.30 and still find a table free and the kitchen in full operation if they feel peckish – what other countries would call a 'midnight feast' is merely a 'slightly-later-than-usual-dinner' for Spanish consumers – but the entire country is having to suddenly change its habits, at least for the next fortnight.

Restaurants are already limited at present, with only 50% of the usual number allowed inside and 60% in outside seating areas, meaning eateries in colder regions will struggle more; those on the Mediterranean and south coasts and on the islands, however, will do more trade, since it is still not too cold in the evenings to dine outdoors comfortably with a coat on.

In fact, in these parts of the country, it is rarely, if ever, too cold to dine outside as long as you 'dress for the temperature'.

One of the biggest contributors to the national economy, supporting restaurants and bars is crucial at any time of the year, and their owners are taking every possible step to adapt to the new 'climate'.

They want to make sure customers are safe and, equally as importantly, feel safe, since doing so means the business is more likely to be able to stay open.

During this evening's (Wednesday's) National Awards 2020 ceremony, Hostelería de España stressed that restaurants are, indeed, a safe place to be – many eatery owners have already pressed this point, and representatives of over a quarter of a million of these in Spain have reiterated the assurances.

Owners disinfect the premises and all fixtures regularly, including tables and chairs between each set of customers; group numbers are limited to between four and 10, depending upon region; tables are set at least two metres apart; anyone entering is required to make use of the hand-sanitiser dispensers at the door, and masks must be worn when not physically eating or drinking.

Ventilation has been improved, as have the already-high standards of hygiene and safety, and staff have been trained to ensure their practices are 'Covid safe'.

Restaurateurs say eating out is, therefore, probably safer for families and groups of friends than doing so in private homes – when in someone's house, especially your own, you are less likely to keep to social-distancing and mask-wearing precautions, but in a restaurant, you are obliged to do so as per the 'rules' of the establishment, they say.

Most eateries who did so during lockdown are still offering takeaway services or home deliveries for those who are reluctant to leave their houses for non-essential activities, but they are only able to do so until 'curfew hour' at present.

Photograph by Hostelería de España on Twitter (@CEHEhosteleria)