GERMAN supermarket chain Aldi has announced a major expansion plan for Spain in 2024, with its distribution centre in Sagunto (Valencia province) set to open next month and a another one on the cards for the north.
Reaching for the stars: Spain's 2023 Michelin restaurants
23/11/2022
WHEN SEEKING out the ideal restaurant for that extra-special celebration, one where the higher price you pay is worth every cent, and where the dishes you're served are so unique you won't find anything else like them on earth – often, so visually-attractive you feel the need to photograph them before tucking in – the annual Michelin guide can be your greatest ally.
Originally launched in France, but now with different editions for individual countries or small groups of countries, any restaurateur who makes it into the guide is instantly placed on the world dining map and will henceforth be catering for customers who have travelled considerable distances just to taste their wares.
Having one Michelin star is proof of a restaurant's excellence, so you don't have to feel apprehensive about whether the food and service will be up to scratch before you book.
And having the maximum of three Michelin stars means your eatery is officially among the best on earth.
This year's star-awarding ceremony for the 2023 Spain, Andorra and Portugal Michelin guide took place in the historic Castilla-La Mancha city of Toledo for the first time, introducing 1,401 restaurants across the three countries, and upgrading 33 establishments in Spain.
Of these, 28 Spanish restaurants gained their first star, another three earned their second, and two of them were awarded a third.
Once you've reached for the stars and grabbed three, there's no higher you can go – but hanging onto this prestigious kitemark is a goal in itself, since you will have to maintain those world-beating standards every day of your professional life to enable you to remain at the summit of culinary splendour.
Top budget: Spain's eateries with three Michelin stars, including two newcomers
With 13 restaurants holding the highest-possible Michelin status – three stars – Spain is the ideal élite dining destination, and at least one of its haute cuisine establishments has been ranked as the world's best in the recent past.
This is the case with El Celler de Can Roca, run by the Roca family in Girona city and giving a touch of ultra-sophistication to a trip to the Costa Brava.
It's one of four three-starred restaurants in Catalunya, although the only one outside Barcelona city.
The other three are ABaC, Basque chef Martín Berasateguí's Lasarte, and the brand-new entry for this year, Cocina Hermanos Torres, run by TV celebrities Sergio and Javier Torres.
The Basque Country has long been the cradle of Michelin-starred restaurants, especially those with the top award, and 2023 will be no exception. Akelarre and Arzak in the film festival city of San Sebastián, Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, near Bilbao (Vizcaya province), and Martín Berasategui's eponymous premises, in Lasarte-Oria, Guipúzcoa province (of which San Sebastián is the capital), giving this culinary talent two eateries in the top standings.
By contrast, Madrid and southern Spain only have one each – in the former, DiverXO, run by famous TV face Dabiz Muñoz, whose partner Cristina Pedroche is a presenter famous for covering the New Year chimes on Spanish screens; and in the latter, Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María, on the Cádiz-province coast and in the heart of 'sherry country'.
Cantabria, on the northern coast, has one – Cenador de Amós in Villaverde de Pontones.
The Costa Blanca has just one three-starred restaurant, Quique Dacosta in Dénia, northern Alicante province. It used to be called 'El Poblet', but Quique himself gave it his own name, since it sometimes became confusing for locals – the nearest village directly to the north is called Els Poblets.
Quique appeared on UK television 11 years ago, featuring on Gordon Ramsay's Costa del Nightmares, where he was drafted in to teach silver service to a local restaurant-owning family.
Along with Cocina Hermanos Torres, one other restaurant has gained a third star for next year – Atrio, in the Extremadura city of Cáceres, capital of the province of the same name.
Still splendid: Two Michelin stars, with three new entries
Three restaurants that were one-starred in 2022 have doubled their astro-count for 2023: Deessa, in Madrid, based at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, is run by chef Guillermo Chávez, but the dishes and menu are designed by Quique Dacosta; Pepe Vieira, run by Xosé T. Cannas, in Serpe, in the Galicia province of Pontevedra, and El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Adeje, Tenerife, on the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach.
The latter is one of just two restaurants with more than one Michelin star in the Canary Island province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, made up of Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma, and El Hierro – the other, also with two stars, is M.B. in Guía de Isora.
Existing two-starred restaurants joining Deessa in Madrid are Coque, DSTAgE, La Terraza del Casino, Ramón Freixa Madrid, and Smoked Room.
Pepe Vieira's only fellow double-star in Pontevedra province is Culler de Pau, in Reboredo.
Once again, the Basque Country is a culinary paradise, with two-starred restaurants Amelia in San Sebastián and Mugaritz in nearby Errenteria; as is Catalunya, with Àngle, Cinc Sentits, Disfrutar, Enoteca, and Moments in Barcelona city and Les Cols in Olot and Miramar in Llançá, in the province of Girona, plus Bo.Tic in Girona city.
On the Costa Blanca, Jávea's BonAmb and Cocentaina's L'Escaleta, both in the province of Alicante, keep their two stars; in the province of Valencia, just to the north, Quique Dacosta's lower-priced El Poblet (approximately €55 a head as at 2019 prices) and Ricard Camarena, who also holds a Michelin 'Green Star' for sustainable cuisine, both based in Valencia city, have retained their two stars.
The Costa del Sol has two restaurants with two Michelin stars – Bardal, in Ronda, and Skina, in Marbella – whilst Mallorca and Murcia have one each: Voro in Capdepera and Cabaña Buenavista in Murcia city.
Other two-starred restaurants in the 2023 guide are mainly in northern Spain: Casa Marcial in Arriondas, Asturias; El Molino de Urdániz in Urdaitz, Navarra; El Portal in Ezcaray, La Rioja, and Iván Cerdeño in Toledo, just south of Madrid.
But Maralba in Almansa, Albacete, is in the south-east, to the west of the province of Alicante, and Noor is in Córdoba, in the southern region of Andalucía.
Their first star
A long list of restaurants have acquired their first Michelin star for this coming year, giving an automatic boost to their profile and acting as clear evidence of their exceptional quality and creativity, exacting standards, and top customer service.
A total of 28 newly-starred restaurants are now trading in Spain: Ababol in Albacete city and Oba in Casas-Ibáñez, Albacete province, and Ancestral in Illescas, Toledo (all in Castilla-La Mancha); Ajonegro in Logroño, La Rioja; AlmaMater in Murcia; Alquímia-Laboratorio in Valladolid and Cobo Evolución in Burgos (both in Castilla y León); ARREA! in Santa Cruz de Campezo in the Basque Country; Ceibe in Ourense and O'Pazo in Padrón, A Coruña (both in Galicia); Código de Barra in Cádiz, Kaleja in Málaga, and La Finca in Loja, Granada (all in Andalucía); COME by Paco Méndez, Mont Bar, Aleia, Slow&Low, and Enigma in Barcelona; Etxeko Ibiza in Es Canar, Ibiza; Ferpel in Ortiguera, Monte in San Feliz, Asturias; Gente Rara in Zaragoza; Montia in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, (Madrid region) and Ugo Chan, Zuara Sushi, and RavioXO in Madrid city; and San-Hô in Adeje, Tenerife and Tabaiba in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, in the Canary Islands.
Falling stars
If you went to a Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain that is not on this list, then its status will not have changed – other than seven restaurants, two of which have closed, all others in the country have kept their awards.
Martín Berasateguí's one-starred San Sebastián eatery eMe Be Garrote, has closed down since the 2022 Michelin guide was published; but his Barcelona-based Oria and Bilbao-based Ola Martín Berasateguí, each with one star, remain open, making him one of Spain's most 'dazzling' chefs – eight Michelin stars just from these four restaurants.
Auga e Sal in Santiago de Compostela (A Coruña province, Galicia) also closed down, meaning no Michelin star for next year.
Cebo in Madrid is described as having lost its star through 'change in management', and another four for reasons not defined: Estany Clar in Berga, Barcelona province; Kabuki in Madrid; Trivio in Cuenca, and Mirador de Ulía in San Sebastián.
Of course, dropping a star, or losing one's only star, does not necessarily mean there is anything 'wrong with' the restaurant. Quite the opposite – having once qualified for a Michelin star means they are already among the crème of eateries.
But gaining or retaining stars is an incredibly tough process, requiring huge efforts, long hours of work, and financial investment – not all restaurants are in a position to be able to dedicate extra funds or focus additional time on their applications, so they may opt not to enter the 'contest' in a given year.
Others may fall slightly short of the mark due to small technicalities – after all, for a Michelin star, 'excellent', if not actually 'perfect', is the only valid standard. 'Extremely good' will not cut it.
To this end, even if a former Michelin-starred restaurant has been downgraded in a given year, it is very probable that its status has simply fallen from 'practically perfect' to 'almost perfect' – which is still a rare, if unofficial, distinction.
'Sustainable' and 'eco-friendly': Michelin 'Green Stars'
A 'notable commitment to environmental responsibility', the Michelin 'Green Star' is almost as valuable for advertising a restaurant these days as a 'standard' Michelin star; customers want the best dining experience, but many would be willing to compromise on 'perfection' if it meant their eatery of choice was doing its bit for the planet.
Luckily, these eco-conscious diners have plenty of choice in Spain – a total of 39 have made it into the Spain and Portugal guide, including 13 new ones.
Restaurants already mentioned above for having one or more 'mainstream' Michelin stars, and which also have a 'Green Star', are Culler de Pau in O Grove and Pepe Vieira in Serpa, Pontevedra province; ARREA! In Santa Cruz de Campezo, Álava province, and Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, Vizcaya province (Basque Country); Oba in Albacete; Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona; El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Les Cols in Olot, Girona province; Aponiente en El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz province; Cenador de Amós in Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria; and Ricard Camarena in Valencia.
Other 'Green-Starred' restaurants, some of which have one 'standard' Michelin star, are O Balado in Boqueixón, A Coruña province (Galicia); Zelai Txiki in San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa province, and Eneko in Larrabetzu, Vizcaya province (Basque Country); Narbasu in Cereceda, Asturias; Maca de Castro in Port d'Alcúdia and Andreu Gestra in Capdepera, Mallorca; Els Casals in Sagás, Lluerna in Santa Coloma de Gramamet, Somiatruites in Igualada, Casa Nova in Sant Martí Sarroca, all in Barcelona province, L'Antic Molí and Les Moles in Ulldecona, Tarragona province, and Casa Alets in Lladurs, Lleida province (all in Catalunya); Sollo in Fuengirola, Málaga province and Finca Alfoliz in Aljaraque, Huelva province (both in Andalucía); Muxgo in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria; La Bicicleta in Hoznayo and Casona del Judío in Santander, in Cantabria; Coque and El Invernadero in Madrid; Maskarada in Lekunberri, Navarra; El Visco in Fuentespalda, Teruel province and Cancook in Zaragoza (both in Aragón); and La Botica in Matapozuelos, Refectorio in Sardón de Duero, and Ambivium in Peñafiel (Valladolid province) and Lera in Castroverde de Campos (Zamora province), all in Castilla y León.
Related Topics
WHEN SEEKING out the ideal restaurant for that extra-special celebration, one where the higher price you pay is worth every cent, and where the dishes you're served are so unique you won't find anything else like them on earth – often, so visually-attractive you feel the need to photograph them before tucking in – the annual Michelin guide can be your greatest ally.
Originally launched in France, but now with different editions for individual countries or small groups of countries, any restaurateur who makes it into the guide is instantly placed on the world dining map and will henceforth be catering for customers who have travelled considerable distances just to taste their wares.
Having one Michelin star is proof of a restaurant's excellence, so you don't have to feel apprehensive about whether the food and service will be up to scratch before you book.
And having the maximum of three Michelin stars means your eatery is officially among the best on earth.
This year's star-awarding ceremony for the 2023 Spain, Andorra and Portugal Michelin guide took place in the historic Castilla-La Mancha city of Toledo for the first time, introducing 1,401 restaurants across the three countries, and upgrading 33 establishments in Spain.
Of these, 28 Spanish restaurants gained their first star, another three earned their second, and two of them were awarded a third.
Once you've reached for the stars and grabbed three, there's no higher you can go – but hanging onto this prestigious kitemark is a goal in itself, since you will have to maintain those world-beating standards every day of your professional life to enable you to remain at the summit of culinary splendour.
Top budget: Spain's eateries with three Michelin stars, including two newcomers
With 13 restaurants holding the highest-possible Michelin status – three stars – Spain is the ideal élite dining destination, and at least one of its haute cuisine establishments has been ranked as the world's best in the recent past.
This is the case with El Celler de Can Roca, run by the Roca family in Girona city and giving a touch of ultra-sophistication to a trip to the Costa Brava.
It's one of four three-starred restaurants in Catalunya, although the only one outside Barcelona city.
The other three are ABaC, Basque chef Martín Berasateguí's Lasarte, and the brand-new entry for this year, Cocina Hermanos Torres, run by TV celebrities Sergio and Javier Torres.
The Basque Country has long been the cradle of Michelin-starred restaurants, especially those with the top award, and 2023 will be no exception. Akelarre and Arzak in the film festival city of San Sebastián, Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, near Bilbao (Vizcaya province), and Martín Berasategui's eponymous premises, in Lasarte-Oria, Guipúzcoa province (of which San Sebastián is the capital), giving this culinary talent two eateries in the top standings.
By contrast, Madrid and southern Spain only have one each – in the former, DiverXO, run by famous TV face Dabiz Muñoz, whose partner Cristina Pedroche is a presenter famous for covering the New Year chimes on Spanish screens; and in the latter, Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María, on the Cádiz-province coast and in the heart of 'sherry country'.
Cantabria, on the northern coast, has one – Cenador de Amós in Villaverde de Pontones.
The Costa Blanca has just one three-starred restaurant, Quique Dacosta in Dénia, northern Alicante province. It used to be called 'El Poblet', but Quique himself gave it his own name, since it sometimes became confusing for locals – the nearest village directly to the north is called Els Poblets.
Quique appeared on UK television 11 years ago, featuring on Gordon Ramsay's Costa del Nightmares, where he was drafted in to teach silver service to a local restaurant-owning family.
Along with Cocina Hermanos Torres, one other restaurant has gained a third star for next year – Atrio, in the Extremadura city of Cáceres, capital of the province of the same name.
Still splendid: Two Michelin stars, with three new entries
Three restaurants that were one-starred in 2022 have doubled their astro-count for 2023: Deessa, in Madrid, based at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, is run by chef Guillermo Chávez, but the dishes and menu are designed by Quique Dacosta; Pepe Vieira, run by Xosé T. Cannas, in Serpe, in the Galicia province of Pontevedra, and El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Adeje, Tenerife, on the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach.
The latter is one of just two restaurants with more than one Michelin star in the Canary Island province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, made up of Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma, and El Hierro – the other, also with two stars, is M.B. in Guía de Isora.
Existing two-starred restaurants joining Deessa in Madrid are Coque, DSTAgE, La Terraza del Casino, Ramón Freixa Madrid, and Smoked Room.
Pepe Vieira's only fellow double-star in Pontevedra province is Culler de Pau, in Reboredo.
Once again, the Basque Country is a culinary paradise, with two-starred restaurants Amelia in San Sebastián and Mugaritz in nearby Errenteria; as is Catalunya, with Àngle, Cinc Sentits, Disfrutar, Enoteca, and Moments in Barcelona city and Les Cols in Olot and Miramar in Llançá, in the province of Girona, plus Bo.Tic in Girona city.
On the Costa Blanca, Jávea's BonAmb and Cocentaina's L'Escaleta, both in the province of Alicante, keep their two stars; in the province of Valencia, just to the north, Quique Dacosta's lower-priced El Poblet (approximately €55 a head as at 2019 prices) and Ricard Camarena, who also holds a Michelin 'Green Star' for sustainable cuisine, both based in Valencia city, have retained their two stars.
The Costa del Sol has two restaurants with two Michelin stars – Bardal, in Ronda, and Skina, in Marbella – whilst Mallorca and Murcia have one each: Voro in Capdepera and Cabaña Buenavista in Murcia city.
Other two-starred restaurants in the 2023 guide are mainly in northern Spain: Casa Marcial in Arriondas, Asturias; El Molino de Urdániz in Urdaitz, Navarra; El Portal in Ezcaray, La Rioja, and Iván Cerdeño in Toledo, just south of Madrid.
But Maralba in Almansa, Albacete, is in the south-east, to the west of the province of Alicante, and Noor is in Córdoba, in the southern region of Andalucía.
Their first star
A long list of restaurants have acquired their first Michelin star for this coming year, giving an automatic boost to their profile and acting as clear evidence of their exceptional quality and creativity, exacting standards, and top customer service.
A total of 28 newly-starred restaurants are now trading in Spain: Ababol in Albacete city and Oba in Casas-Ibáñez, Albacete province, and Ancestral in Illescas, Toledo (all in Castilla-La Mancha); Ajonegro in Logroño, La Rioja; AlmaMater in Murcia; Alquímia-Laboratorio in Valladolid and Cobo Evolución in Burgos (both in Castilla y León); ARREA! in Santa Cruz de Campezo in the Basque Country; Ceibe in Ourense and O'Pazo in Padrón, A Coruña (both in Galicia); Código de Barra in Cádiz, Kaleja in Málaga, and La Finca in Loja, Granada (all in Andalucía); COME by Paco Méndez, Mont Bar, Aleia, Slow&Low, and Enigma in Barcelona; Etxeko Ibiza in Es Canar, Ibiza; Ferpel in Ortiguera, Monte in San Feliz, Asturias; Gente Rara in Zaragoza; Montia in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, (Madrid region) and Ugo Chan, Zuara Sushi, and RavioXO in Madrid city; and San-Hô in Adeje, Tenerife and Tabaiba in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, in the Canary Islands.
Falling stars
If you went to a Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain that is not on this list, then its status will not have changed – other than seven restaurants, two of which have closed, all others in the country have kept their awards.
Martín Berasateguí's one-starred San Sebastián eatery eMe Be Garrote, has closed down since the 2022 Michelin guide was published; but his Barcelona-based Oria and Bilbao-based Ola Martín Berasateguí, each with one star, remain open, making him one of Spain's most 'dazzling' chefs – eight Michelin stars just from these four restaurants.
Auga e Sal in Santiago de Compostela (A Coruña province, Galicia) also closed down, meaning no Michelin star for next year.
Cebo in Madrid is described as having lost its star through 'change in management', and another four for reasons not defined: Estany Clar in Berga, Barcelona province; Kabuki in Madrid; Trivio in Cuenca, and Mirador de Ulía in San Sebastián.
Of course, dropping a star, or losing one's only star, does not necessarily mean there is anything 'wrong with' the restaurant. Quite the opposite – having once qualified for a Michelin star means they are already among the crème of eateries.
But gaining or retaining stars is an incredibly tough process, requiring huge efforts, long hours of work, and financial investment – not all restaurants are in a position to be able to dedicate extra funds or focus additional time on their applications, so they may opt not to enter the 'contest' in a given year.
Others may fall slightly short of the mark due to small technicalities – after all, for a Michelin star, 'excellent', if not actually 'perfect', is the only valid standard. 'Extremely good' will not cut it.
To this end, even if a former Michelin-starred restaurant has been downgraded in a given year, it is very probable that its status has simply fallen from 'practically perfect' to 'almost perfect' – which is still a rare, if unofficial, distinction.
'Sustainable' and 'eco-friendly': Michelin 'Green Stars'
A 'notable commitment to environmental responsibility', the Michelin 'Green Star' is almost as valuable for advertising a restaurant these days as a 'standard' Michelin star; customers want the best dining experience, but many would be willing to compromise on 'perfection' if it meant their eatery of choice was doing its bit for the planet.
Luckily, these eco-conscious diners have plenty of choice in Spain – a total of 39 have made it into the Spain and Portugal guide, including 13 new ones.
Restaurants already mentioned above for having one or more 'mainstream' Michelin stars, and which also have a 'Green Star', are Culler de Pau in O Grove and Pepe Vieira in Serpa, Pontevedra province; ARREA! In Santa Cruz de Campezo, Álava province, and Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, Vizcaya province (Basque Country); Oba in Albacete; Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona; El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Les Cols in Olot, Girona province; Aponiente en El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz province; Cenador de Amós in Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria; and Ricard Camarena in Valencia.
Other 'Green-Starred' restaurants, some of which have one 'standard' Michelin star, are O Balado in Boqueixón, A Coruña province (Galicia); Zelai Txiki in San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa province, and Eneko in Larrabetzu, Vizcaya province (Basque Country); Narbasu in Cereceda, Asturias; Maca de Castro in Port d'Alcúdia and Andreu Gestra in Capdepera, Mallorca; Els Casals in Sagás, Lluerna in Santa Coloma de Gramamet, Somiatruites in Igualada, Casa Nova in Sant Martí Sarroca, all in Barcelona province, L'Antic Molí and Les Moles in Ulldecona, Tarragona province, and Casa Alets in Lladurs, Lleida province (all in Catalunya); Sollo in Fuengirola, Málaga province and Finca Alfoliz in Aljaraque, Huelva province (both in Andalucía); Muxgo in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria; La Bicicleta in Hoznayo and Casona del Judío in Santander, in Cantabria; Coque and El Invernadero in Madrid; Maskarada in Lekunberri, Navarra; El Visco in Fuentespalda, Teruel province and Cancook in Zaragoza (both in Aragón); and La Botica in Matapozuelos, Refectorio in Sardón de Duero, and Ambivium in Peñafiel (Valladolid province) and Lera in Castroverde de Campos (Zamora province), all in Castilla y León.
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